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This table provides a comprehensive overview of various gemstones and gem materials commonly used in jewelry, detailing their chemical composition, color range, practical size categories, cost per carat, hardness on the Mohs scale, specific gravity, refractive index, and distinguishing characteristics. Such data is crucial for the gemstone industry, as it informs gemologists, jewelers, and consumers about the physical and optical properties that affect a gem’s durability, appearance, and market value. Understanding these attributes supports accurate identification, valuation, and appropriate use in jewelry design, which in turn influences economic activity in mining, cutting, trading, and retail sectors worldwide.
Analysis of the data reveals a wide spectrum of gemstones ranging from organic materials like amber and coral to highly durable minerals such as diamond and corundum (ruby and sapphire). Diamonds stand out with the highest hardness rating of 10 and a very high cost, reflecting their premium status in the market. Corundum varieties like ruby and sapphire also exhibit high hardness (9.0) and significant value, with rubies noted for their very high cost. Synthetic counterparts, such as synthetic emeralds and spinels, are identified by their smaller practical sizes and lower costs, highlighting their role as more affordable alternatives. Notably, beryl group gemstones (aquamarine, emerald, bixbite) show a range of costs from medium to very high, with emeralds commanding high prices due to their rich green color and rarity. The table also emphasizes the importance of distinguishing features such as refractive index and specific gravity, which aid in differentiating natural stones from synthetics and imitations, a critical factor for maintaining market integrity.
| TABLE 10 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| GUIDE TO SELECTED GEMSTONES AND GEM MATERIALS USED IN JEWELRY | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Practical | Mohs' | Specific | Refractive | May be | Recognition | |||||||||||||||
| Name | Composition | Color | size1 | Cost2 | hardness | gravity | Refraction | index | confused with | characteristics | ||||||||||
| Amber | Hydrocarbon | Yellow, red, green, blue | Any | Low to | 2.0–2.5 | 1.0–1.1 | Single | 1.54 | Synthetic or pressed | Fossil resin, color, low | ||||||||||
| medium | plastics, kauri gum | density, soft, insects. | ||||||||||||||||||
| Apatite | Chlorocalcium | Colorless, pink, yellow, | Small | Low | 5.0 | 3.16–3.23 | Double | 1.63–1.65 | Amblygonite, andalusite, | Crystal habit, color, | ||||||||||
| phosphate | green, blue, violet | brazilianite, precious | hardness, appearance. | |||||||||||||||||
| beryl, titanite, topaz, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| tourmaline | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Azurite | Copper carbonate | Azure, dark blue, pale | Small to | do. | 3.5–4.0 | 3.7–3.9 | do. | 1.72–1.85 | Dumortierite, hauynite, | Color, softness, crystal | ||||||||||
| hydroxide | blue | medium | lapis lazuli, lazulite, | habits, associated | ||||||||||||||||
| sodalite | minerals. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Benitoite | Barium | Blue, purple, pink, | do. | High | 6.0–6.5 | 3.64–3.68 | do. | 1.76–1.80 | Sapphire, tanzanite, | Strong blue in ultraviolet | ||||||||||
| titanium silicate | colorless | blue diamond, blue | light. | |||||||||||||||||
| tourmaline, cordierite | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Beryl: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Aquamarine | Beryllium | Blue-green to light blue | Any | Medium to | 7.5–8.0 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Synthetic spinel, blue | Double refraction, | ||||||||||
| aluminum | high | topaz | refractive index. | |||||||||||||||||
| silicate | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Bixbite | do. | Red | Small | Very high | 7.5–8.0 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Pressed plastics, | Refractive index. | ||||||||||
| tourmaline | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Emerald, natural | do. | Green | Medium | do. | 7.5 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Fused emerald, glass, | Emerald filter, dichroism, | ||||||||||
| tourmaline, peridot, | refractive index. | |||||||||||||||||||
| green garnet doublets | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Emerald, synthetic | do. | do. | Small | High | 7.5–8.0 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Genuine emerald | Lack of flaws, brilliant | ||||||||||
| fluorescence in | ||||||||||||||||||||
| ultraviolet light. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Golden (heliodor) | do. | Yellow to golden | Any | Low to | 7.5–8.0 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Citrine, topaz, glass, | Weak-colored. | ||||||||||
| medium | doublets | |||||||||||||||||||
| Goshenite | do. | Colorless | do. | Low | 7.5–8.0 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Quartz, glass, white | Refractive index. | ||||||||||
| sapphire, white topaz | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Morganite | do. | Pink to rose | do. | do. | 7.5–8.0 | 2.63–2.80 | do. | 1.58 | Kunzite, tourmaline, | Do. | ||||||||||
| pink sapphire | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Calcite: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Marble | Calcium carbonate | White, pink, red, blue, | do. | do. | 3.0 | 2.72 | Double | 1.49–1.66 | Silicates, banded agate, | Translucent. | ||||||||||
| green, or brown | (strong) | alabaster gypsum | ||||||||||||||||||
| Mexican onyx | do. | do. | do. | do. | 3.0 | 2.72 | do. | 1.60 | do. | Banded, translucent. | ||||||||||
| Charoite | Hydrated sodium | Lilac, violet, or white | Small to | do. | 5.0–6.0 | 2.54–2.78 | XX | 1.55–1.56 | Purple marble | Color, locality. | ||||||||||
| calcium hydroxi- | medium | |||||||||||||||||||
| fluoro-silicate | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Chrysoberyl: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Alexandrite | Beryllium aluminate | Green by direct sunlight or | do. | High | 8.5 | 3.50–3.84 | Double | 1.75 | Synthetic | Strong dichroism, color | ||||||||||
| incandescent light, red by | varies from red to | |||||||||||||||||||
| indirect sunlight or | green, hardness. | |||||||||||||||||||
| fluorescent light | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Cat's eye | do. | Greenish to brownish | Small to | do. | 8.5 | 3.50–3.84 | do. | 1.75 | Synthetic, shell | Density, translucence, | ||||||||||
| large | chatoyance. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Chrysolite | do. | Yellow, green, and (or) | Medium | Medium | 8.5 | 3.50–3.84 | do. | 1.75 | Tourmaline, peridot | Refractive index, silky. | ||||||||||
| brown | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Chrysocolla | Hydrated copper | Green, blue | Any | Low | 2.0–4.0 | 2.0–2.4 | XX | 1.46–1.57 | Azurite, dyed | Lack of crystals, color, | ||||||||||
| silicate | chalcedony, malachite, | fracture, low density, | ||||||||||||||||||
| turquoise, variscite | softness. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Coral | Calcium carbonate | Orange, red, white, black, | Branching, | do. | 3.5–4.0 | 2.6–2.7 | Double | 1.49–1.66 | False coral | Dull translucent. | ||||||||||
| purple, or green | medium | |||||||||||||||||||
| Corundum: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Ruby | Aluminum oxide | Rose to deep purplish red | Small | Very high | 9.0 | 3.95–4.10 | do. | 1.78 | Synthetics, including | Inclusions, fluorescence. | ||||||||||
| spinel, garnet | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Sapphire, blue | do. | Blue | Medium | High | 9.0 | 3.95–4.10 | do. | 1.78 | do. | Inclusions, double | ||||||||||
| refraction, dichroism. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Sapphire, fancy | do. | Yellow, pink, colorless, | Medium to | Medium | 9.0 | 3.95–4.10 | do. | 1.78 | Synthetics, glass and | Inclusions, double | ||||||||||
| orange, green, or violet | large | doublets, morganite | refraction, refractive | |||||||||||||||||
| index. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Sapphire or ruby, | do. | Red, pink, violet, blue, or | do. | High to low | 9.0 | 3.95–4.10 | do. | 1.78 | Star quartz, synthetic | Shows asterism, color | ||||||||||
| stars | gray | stars | side view. | |||||||||||||||||
| Sapphire or ruby, | do. | Yellow, pink, blue, green, | Up to 20 | Low | 9.0 | 3.95–4.10 | do. | 1.78 | Synthetic spinel, glass | Curved striae, bubble | ||||||||||
| synthetic | orange, violet, or red | carats | inclusions. | |||||||||||||||||
| Cubic zirconia | Zirconium and | Colorless, pink, blue, | Small | do. | 8.25–8.5 | 5.8 | Single | 2.17 | Diamond, zircon, titania, | Hardness, density, lack | ||||||||||
| yttrium oxides | lavender, yellow | moissanite | of flaws and inclusions, | |||||||||||||||||
| refractive index. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Diamond | Carbon | White, blue-white, | Any | Very high | 10.0 | 3.516–3.525 | do. | 2.42 | Zircon, titania, cubic | High index, dispersion, | ||||||||||
| yellow, brown, green, | zirconia, moissanite | hardness, luster. | ||||||||||||||||||
| red, pink, blue | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Feldspar: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Amazonite | Alkali aluminum | Green-blue | Large | Low | 6.0–6.5 | 2.56 | XX | 1.52 | Jade, turquoise | Cleavage, sheen, vitreous | ||||||||||
| silicate | to pearly, opaque, grid. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Labradorite | do. | Gray with blue and | do. | do. | 6.0–6.5 | 2.56 | XX | 1.56 | do. | Do. | ||||||||||
| bronze sheen color play | ||||||||||||||||||||
| (schiller) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Moonstone | do. | Colorless, white, gray, | do. | do. | 6.0–6.5 | 2.77 | XX | 1.52–1.54 | Glass, chalcedony, opal | Pale sheen, opalescent. | ||||||||||
| or yellow with white, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| blue, or bronze schiller | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Sunstone | do. | Orange, red brown, | Small to | do. | 6.0–6.5 | 2.77 | XX | 1.53–1.55 | Aventurine, glass | Red glittery schiller. | ||||||||||
| colorless with gold or | medium | |||||||||||||||||||
| red glittery schiller | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Garnet | Complex silicate | Brown, black, yellow, | do. | Low to high | 6.5–7.5 | 3.15–4.30 | Single | 1.79–1.98 | Synthetics, spinel, | Single refraction, | ||||||||||
| green, red, or orange | strained | glass | anomalous strain. | |||||||||||||||||
| Hematite | Iron oxide | Black, black-gray, | Medium to | Low | 5.5–6.5 | 5.12–5.28 | XX | 2.94–3.22 | Davidite, cassiterite, | Crystal habit, streak, | ||||||||||
| brown-red | large | magnetite, neptunite, | hardness. | |||||||||||||||||
| pyrolusite, wolframite | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Jade: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Jadeite | Complex silicate | Green, yellow, black, | Large | Low to very | 6.5–7.0 | 3.3–3.5 | Crypto- | 1.65–1.68 | Nephrite, chalcedony, | Luster, spectrum, | ||||||||||
| white, or mauve | high | crystalline | onyx, bowenite, | translucent to opaque. | ||||||||||||||||
| vesuvianite, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| grossularite | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Nephrite | Complex hydrous | do. | do. | do. | 6.0–6.5 | 2.96–3.10 | do. | 1.61–1.63 | Jadeite, chalcedony, | Do. | ||||||||||
| silicate | onyx, bowenite, | |||||||||||||||||||
| vesuvianite, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| grossularite | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Jet (gagate) | Lignite | Deep black, dark brown | do. | Low | 2.5–4.0 | 1.19–1.35 | XX | 1.64–1.68 | Anthracite, asphalt, | Luster, color. | ||||||||||
| cannel coal, onyx, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| schorl, glass, rubber | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Lapis lazuli | Sodium calcium | Dark azure-blue to | do. | do. | 5.0–6.0 | 2.50–3.0 | XX | 1.50 | Azurite, dumortierite, | Color, crystal habit, | ||||||||||
| aluminum silicate | bright indigo blue or | dyed howlite, lazulite, | associated minerals, | |||||||||||||||||
| even a pale sky blue | sodalite, glass | luster, localities. | ||||||||||||||||||
| Malachite | Hydrated copper | Light to black-green | do. | do. | 3.5–4.0 | 3.25–4.10 | XX | 1.66–1.91 | Brochantite, chrysoprase, | Color banding, softness, | ||||||||||
| carbonate | banded | opaque green | associated minerals. | |||||||||||||||||
| gemstones | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Moissanite | Silicon carbide | Colorless and pale shades | Small | Low to | 9.25 | 3.21 | Double | 2.65–2.69 | Diamond, zircon, titania, | Hardness, dispersion, lack | ||||||||||
| of green, blue, yellow | medium | cubic zirconia | of flaws and inclusions, | |||||||||||||||||
| refractive index. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Obsidian | Amorphous, | Black, gray, brown, | Large | Low | 5.0–5.5 | 2.35–2.60 | XX | 1.45–1.55 | Aegirine-augite, | Color, conchoidal | ||||||||||
| variable (usually | dark green, white, | gadolinite, gagate, | fracture, flow bubbles, | |||||||||||||||||
| felsic) | transparent | hematite, pyrolusite, | softness, lack of | |||||||||||||||||
| wolframite | crystal faces. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Opal | Hydrated silica | Reddish orange, colors | do. | Low to high | 5.5–6.5 | 1.9–2.3 | Single | 1.45 | Glass, synthetics, | Color play (opalescence). | ||||||||||
| flash in white gray, | triplets, chalcedony | |||||||||||||||||||
| black, red, or yellow | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Peridot | Iron magnesium | Yellow and (or) green | Any | Medium | 6.5–7.0 | 3.27–3.37 | Double | 1.65–1.69 | Tourmaline, chrysoberyl | Strong double refraction, | ||||||||||
| silicate | (strong) | low dichroism. | ||||||||||||||||||
| Quartz: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Agate | Silicon dioxide | Any color | Large | Low | 7.0 | 2.58–2.64 | XX | XX | Glass, plastic, Mexican | Cryptocrystalline, | ||||||||||
| onyx | irregularly banded, | |||||||||||||||||||
| dendritic inclusions. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Amethyst | do. | Purple | do. | Medium | 7.0 | 2.65–2.66 | Double | 1.55 | Glass, plastic, fluorite | Macrocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| refractive index, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| transparent, hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Aventurine | do. | Green, red-brown, | do. | Low | 7.0 | 2.64–2.69 | do. | 1.54–1.55 | Iridescent analcime, | Macrocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| gold-brown, with metallic | aventurine feldspar, | metallic iridescent flake | ||||||||||||||||||
| iridescent reflection | emerald, aventurine | reflections, hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||
| glass | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Cairngorm | do. | Smoky orange or yellow | do. | do. | 7.0 | 2.65–2.66 | do. | 1.55 | do. | Macrocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| refractive index, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| transparent, hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Carnelian | do. | Flesh red to brown red | do. | do. | 6.5–7.0 | 2.58–2.64 | do. | 1.53–1.54 | Jasper | Cryptocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Chalcedony | do. | Bluish, white, or gray | do. | do. | 6.5–7.0 | 2.58–2.64 | do. | 1.53–1.54 | Tanzanite | Do. | ||||||||||
| Chrysoprase | do. | Green, apple-green | do. | do. | 6.5–7.0 | 2.58–2.64 | do. | 1.53–1.54 | Chrome chalcedony, | Do. | ||||||||||
| jade, prase opal, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| prehnite, smithsonite, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| variscite, artificially | ||||||||||||||||||||
| colored green | ||||||||||||||||||||
| chalcedony | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Citrine | do. | Yellow | do. | do. | 7.0 | 2.65–2.66 | do. | 1.55 | do. | Macrocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| refractive index, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| transparent, hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Jasper | do. | Any color, striped, | do. | do. | 7.0 | 2.58–2.66 | XX | XX | do. | Cryptocrystalline, | ||||||||||
| spotted, or sometimes | opaque, vitreous luster, | |||||||||||||||||||
| uniform | hardness. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Onyx | do. | Many colors | do. | do. | 7.0 | 2.58–2.64 | XX | XX | do. | Cryptocrystalline, | ||||||||||
| uniformly banded, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Petrified wood | do. | Brown, gray, red, yellow | do. | do. | 6.5–7.0 | 2.58–2.91 | Double | 1.54 | Agate, jasper | Color, hardness, wood | ||||||||||
| grain. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Rock crystal | do. | Colorless | do. | do. | 7.0 | 2.65–2.66 | do. | 1.55 | Topaz, colorless | Do. | ||||||||||
| sapphire | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Rose | do. | Pink, rose red | do. | do. | 7.0 | 2.65–2.66 | do. | 1.55 | do. | Macrocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| refractive index, | ||||||||||||||||||||
| transparent, hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Tiger's eye | do. | Golden yellow, brown, | do. | do. | 6.5–7.0 | 2.58–2.64 | XX | 1.53–1.54 | XX | Macrocrystalline, color, | ||||||||||
| red, blue-black | hardness, chatoyancy. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Rhodochrosite | Manganese carbonate | Rose-red to yellowish, | do. | Low | 4.0 | 3.45–3.7 | Double | 1.6–1.82 | Fire opal, rhodonite, | Color, crystal habit, | ||||||||||
| striped | tugtupite, tourmaline | reaction to acid, perfect | ||||||||||||||||||
| rhombohedral cleavage. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Rhodonite | Manganese iron | Dark red, flesh red, with | do. | do. | 5.5–6.5 | 3.40–3.74 | do. | 1.72–1.75 | Rhodochrosite, thulite, | Color, black inclusions, | ||||||||||
| calcium silicate | dendritic inclusions of | hessonite, spinel, | lack of reaction to acid, | |||||||||||||||||
| black manganese oxide | pyroxmangite, | hardness. | ||||||||||||||||||
| spessartine, tourmaline | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Shell: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Mother-of-pearl | Calcium carbonate | White, cream, green, | Small | do. | 3.5 | 2.6–2.85 | XX | XX | Glass and plastic | Luster, iridescent play | ||||||||||
| blue-green, with | imitation | of color. | ||||||||||||||||||
| iridescent play of color | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Pearl | do. | White, cream to black, | do. | Low to high | 2.5–4.5 | 2.6–2.85 | XX | XX | Cultured and glass or | Luster, iridescence, | ||||||||||
| sometimes with hint of | plastic imitation | x-ray of internal structure. | ||||||||||||||||||
| pink, green, purple | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Spinel, natural | Magnesium | Any color | Small to | Medium | 8.0 | 3.5–3.7 | Single | 1.72 | Synthetic, garnet | Refractive index, single | ||||||||||
| aluminum oxide | medium | refraction, inclusions. | ||||||||||||||||||
| Spinel, synthetic | do. | do. | Up to 40 | Low | 8.0 | 3.5–3.7 | Double | 1.73 | Spinel, corundum, beryl, | Weak double refraction, | ||||||||||
| carats | topaz, alexandrite | curved striae, bubbles. | ||||||||||||||||||
| Spodumene: | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Hiddenite | Lithium aluminum | Yellow to green | Medium | Medium | 6.5–7.0 | 3.13–3.20 | do. | 1.66 | Synthetic spinel | Refractive index, color, | ||||||||||
| silicate | pleochroism. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Kunzite | do. | Pink to lilac | do. | do. | 6.5–7.0 | 3.13–3.20 | do. | 1.66 | Amethyst, morganite | Do. | ||||||||||
| Tanzanite | Complex silicate | Blue to lavender | Small | High | 6.0–7.0 | 3.30 | do. | 1.69 | Sapphire, synthetics | Strong trichroism, color. | ||||||||||
| Topaz | do. | White, blue, green, pink, | Medium | Low to | 8.0 | 3.4–3.6 | do. | 1.62 | Beryl, quartz | Color, density, hardness, | ||||||||||
| yellow, gold | medium | refractive index, perfect | ||||||||||||||||||
| in basal cleavage. | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Tourmaline | do. | Any color, including | do. | do. | 7.0–7.5 | 2.98–3.20 | do. | 1.63 | Peridot, beryl, garnet | Double refraction, color, | ||||||||||
| mixed | corundum, glass | refractive index. | ||||||||||||||||||
| Turquoise | Copper aluminum | Blue to green with black, | Large | Low | 6.0 | 2.60–2.83 | do. | 1.63 | Chrysocolla, dyed | Difficult if matrix not | ||||||||||
| phosphate | brown-red inclusions | howlite, dumortierite, | present, matrix usually | |||||||||||||||||
| glass, plastics, variscite | limonitic. | |||||||||||||||||||
| Unakite | Granitic rock, | Olive green, pink, | do. | do. | 6.0–7.0 | 2.60–3.20 | XX | XX | XX | Olive green, pink, gray- | ||||||||||
| feldspar, epidote, | and blue-gray | blue colors. | ||||||||||||||||||
| quartz | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Zircon | Zirconium silicate | White, blue, brown, yellow, | Small to | Low to | 6.0–7.5 | 4.0–4.8 | Double | 1.79–1.98 | Diamond, synthetics, | Double refraction, | ||||||||||
| or green | medium | medium | (strong) | topaz, aquamarine | strongly dichroic, wear | |||||||||||||||
| on facet edges. | ||||||||||||||||||||
Do., do. Ditto. XX Not applicable.
1Small, up to 5 carats; medium, 5 to 50 carats; large, more than 50 carats.
2Low, up to $25 per carat; medium, up to $200 per carat; high, more than $200 per carat.
Source: United States Geological Survey Mineral Resources Program
See also: Gemstones statistics | Mineral commodity prices