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Guide To Selected Gemstones And Gem Materials Used In Jewelry

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This table provides a comprehensive overview of various gemstones and gem materials commonly used in jewelry, detailing their chemical composition, color range, practical size categories, cost per carat, hardness on the Mohs scale, specific gravity, refractive index, and distinguishing characteristics. Such data is crucial for the gemstone industry, as it informs gemologists, jewelers, and consumers about the physical and optical properties that affect a gem’s durability, appearance, and market value. Understanding these attributes supports accurate identification, valuation, and appropriate use in jewelry design, which in turn influences economic activity in mining, cutting, trading, and retail sectors worldwide.

Analysis of the data reveals a wide spectrum of gemstones ranging from organic materials like amber and coral to highly durable minerals such as diamond and corundum (ruby and sapphire). Diamonds stand out with the highest hardness rating of 10 and a very high cost, reflecting their premium status in the market. Corundum varieties like ruby and sapphire also exhibit high hardness (9.0) and significant value, with rubies noted for their very high cost. Synthetic counterparts, such as synthetic emeralds and spinels, are identified by their smaller practical sizes and lower costs, highlighting their role as more affordable alternatives. Notably, beryl group gemstones (aquamarine, emerald, bixbite) show a range of costs from medium to very high, with emeralds commanding high prices due to their rich green color and rarity. The table also emphasizes the importance of distinguishing features such as refractive index and specific gravity, which aid in differentiating natural stones from synthetics and imitations, a critical factor for maintaining market integrity.

TABLE 10
GUIDE TO SELECTED GEMSTONES AND GEM MATERIALS USED IN JEWELRY
PracticalMohs'SpecificRefractiveMay beRecognition
NameCompositionColorsize1Cost2hardnessgravityRefractionindexconfused withcharacteristics
AmberHydrocarbonYellow, red, green, blueAnyLow to2.0–2.51.0–1.1Single1.54Synthetic or pressedFossil resin, color, low
mediumplastics, kauri gumdensity, soft, insects.
ApatiteChlorocalciumColorless, pink, yellow,SmallLow5.03.16–3.23Double1.63–1.65Amblygonite, andalusite,Crystal habit, color,
phosphategreen, blue, violetbrazilianite, precioushardness, appearance.
beryl, titanite, topaz,
tourmaline
AzuriteCopper carbonateAzure, dark blue, paleSmall todo.3.5–4.03.7–3.9do.1.72–1.85Dumortierite, hauynite,Color, softness, crystal
hydroxidebluemediumlapis lazuli, lazulite,habits, associated
sodaliteminerals.
BenitoiteBarium Blue, purple, pink, do.High6.0–6.53.64–3.68do.1.76–1.80Sapphire, tanzanite,Strong blue in ultraviolet
titanium silicatecolorlessblue diamond, bluelight.
tourmaline, cordierite
Beryl:
AquamarineBeryllium Blue-green to light blueAny Medium to7.5–8.02.63–2.80do.1.58Synthetic spinel, blueDouble refraction,
aluminum hightopazrefractive index.
silicate
Bixbitedo.RedSmallVery high7.5–8.02.63–2.80do.1.58Pressed plastics,Refractive index.
tourmaline
Emerald, naturaldo.GreenMediumdo.7.52.63–2.80do.1.58Fused emerald, glass,Emerald filter, dichroism,
tourmaline, peridot,refractive index.
green garnet doublets
Emerald, syntheticdo.do.SmallHigh7.5–8.02.63–2.80do.1.58Genuine emeraldLack of flaws, brilliant
fluorescence in
ultraviolet light.
Golden (heliodor)do.Yellow to goldenAnyLow to7.5–8.02.63–2.80do.1.58Citrine, topaz, glass,Weak-colored.
mediumdoublets
Goshenitedo.Colorlessdo.Low7.5–8.02.63–2.80do.1.58Quartz, glass, whiteRefractive index.
sapphire, white topaz
Morganitedo.Pink to rosedo.do.7.5–8.02.63–2.80do.1.58Kunzite, tourmaline,Do.
pink sapphire
Calcite:
MarbleCalcium carbonateWhite, pink, red, blue, do.do.3.02.72Double1.49–1.66Silicates, banded agate,Translucent.
green, or brown(strong)alabaster gypsum
Mexican onyxdo.do.do.do.3.02.72do.1.60do.Banded, translucent.
CharoiteHydrated sodium Lilac, violet, or whiteSmall todo.5.0–6.02.54–2.78XX1.55–1.56Purple marbleColor, locality.
calcium hydroxi-medium
fluoro-silicate
Chrysoberyl:
AlexandriteBeryllium aluminateGreen by direct sunlight ordo.High8.53.50–3.84Double1.75SyntheticStrong dichroism, color
incandescent light, red by varies from red to
indirect sunlight or green, hardness.
fluorescent light
Cat's eyedo.Greenish to brownishSmall todo.8.53.50–3.84do.1.75Synthetic, shellDensity, translucence,
largechatoyance.
Chrysolitedo.Yellow, green, and (or)MediumMedium8.53.50–3.84do.1.75Tourmaline, peridotRefractive index, silky.
brown
ChrysocollaHydrated copper Green, blueAnyLow2.0–4.02.0–2.4XX1.46–1.57Azurite, dyedLack of crystals, color,
silicatechalcedony, malachite,fracture, low density,
turquoise, variscitesoftness.
CoralCalcium carbonateOrange, red, white, black,Branching,do.3.5–4.02.6–2.7Double1.49–1.66False coralDull translucent.
purple, or greenmedium
Corundum:
RubyAluminum oxideRose to deep purplish redSmallVery high9.03.95–4.10do.1.78Synthetics, includingInclusions, fluorescence.
spinel, garnet
Sapphire, bluedo.BlueMediumHigh9.03.95–4.10do.1.78do.Inclusions, double
refraction, dichroism.
Sapphire, fancydo.Yellow, pink, colorless, Medium toMedium9.03.95–4.10do.1.78Synthetics, glass andInclusions, double
orange, green, or violetlargedoublets, morganiterefraction, refractive
index.
Sapphire or ruby,do.Red, pink, violet, blue, ordo.High to low9.03.95–4.10do.1.78Star quartz, syntheticShows asterism, color
starsgraystarsside view.
Sapphire or ruby,do.Yellow, pink, blue, green, Up to 20Low9.03.95–4.10do.1.78Synthetic spinel, glassCurved striae, bubble
syntheticorange, violet, or redcaratsinclusions.
Cubic zirconiaZirconium and Colorless, pink, blue,Smalldo.8.25–8.55.8Single2.17Diamond, zircon, titania,Hardness, density, lack
yttrium oxideslavender, yellowmoissaniteof flaws and inclusions,
refractive index.
DiamondCarbonWhite, blue-white,AnyVery high10.03.516–3.525do.2.42Zircon, titania, cubicHigh index, dispersion,
yellow, brown, green,zirconia, moissanitehardness, luster.
red, pink, blue
Feldspar:
AmazoniteAlkali aluminumGreen-blueLargeLow6.0–6.52.56XX1.52Jade, turquoiseCleavage, sheen, vitreous
silicateto pearly, opaque, grid.
Labradoritedo.Gray with blue anddo.do.6.0–6.52.56XX1.56do.Do.
bronze sheen color play
(schiller)
Moonstonedo.Colorless, white, gray,do.do.6.0–6.52.77XX1.52–1.54Glass, chalcedony, opalPale sheen, opalescent.
or yellow with white,
blue, or bronze schiller
Sunstonedo.Orange, red brown,Small todo.6.0–6.52.77XX1.53–1.55Aventurine, glassRed glittery schiller.
colorless with gold ormedium
red glittery schiller
GarnetComplex silicateBrown, black, yellow,do.Low to high6.5–7.53.15–4.30Single1.79–1.98Synthetics, spinel,Single refraction,
green, red, or orange strainedglassanomalous strain.
HematiteIron oxideBlack, black-gray,Medium toLow5.5–6.55.12–5.28XX2.94–3.22Davidite, cassiterite,Crystal habit, streak,
brown-redlargemagnetite, neptunite,hardness.
pyrolusite, wolframite
Jade:
JadeiteComplex silicateGreen, yellow, black,LargeLow to very6.5–7.03.3–3.5Crypto-1.65–1.68Nephrite, chalcedony,Luster, spectrum,
white, or mauvehighcrystallineonyx, bowenite,translucent to opaque.
vesuvianite,
grossularite
NephriteComplex hydrousdo.do.do.6.0–6.52.96–3.10do.1.61–1.63Jadeite, chalcedony,Do.
silicateonyx, bowenite,
vesuvianite,
grossularite
Jet (gagate)LigniteDeep black, dark browndo.Low2.5–4.01.19–1.35XX1.64–1.68Anthracite, asphalt,Luster, color.
cannel coal, onyx,
schorl, glass, rubber
Lapis lazuliSodium calciumDark azure-blue todo.do.5.0–6.02.50–3.0XX1.50Azurite, dumortierite,Color, crystal habit,
aluminum silicatebright indigo blue ordyed howlite, lazulite,associated minerals,
even a pale sky bluesodalite, glassluster, localities.
MalachiteHydrated copperLight to black-greendo.do.3.5–4.03.25–4.10XX1.66–1.91Brochantite, chrysoprase,Color banding, softness,
carbonatebandedopaque greenassociated minerals.
gemstones
MoissaniteSilicon carbideColorless and pale shades SmallLow to 9.253.21Double2.65–2.69Diamond, zircon, titania,Hardness, dispersion, lack
of green, blue, yellowmediumcubic zirconiaof flaws and inclusions,
refractive index.
ObsidianAmorphous,Black, gray, brown,LargeLow5.0–5.52.35–2.60XX1.45–1.55Aegirine-augite,Color, conchoidal
variable (usuallydark green, white,gadolinite, gagate,fracture, flow bubbles,
felsic)transparent hematite, pyrolusite,softness, lack of
wolframitecrystal faces.
OpalHydrated silicaReddish orange, colorsdo.Low to high5.5–6.51.9–2.3Single1.45Glass, synthetics, Color play (opalescence).
flash in white gray,triplets, chalcedony
black, red, or yellow
PeridotIron magnesiumYellow and (or) greenAnyMedium6.5–7.03.27–3.37Double1.65–1.69Tourmaline, chrysoberylStrong double refraction,
silicate(strong)low dichroism.
Quartz:
AgateSilicon dioxideAny colorLargeLow7.02.58–2.64XXXXGlass, plastic, MexicanCryptocrystalline,
onyxirregularly banded,
dendritic inclusions.
Amethystdo.Purpledo.Medium7.02.65–2.66Double1.55Glass, plastic, fluoriteMacrocrystalline, color,
refractive index,
transparent, hardness.
Aventurinedo.Green, red-brown,do.Low7.02.64–2.69do.1.54–1.55Iridescent analcime,Macrocrystalline, color,
gold-brown, with metallic aventurine feldspar,metallic iridescent flake
iridescent reflectionemerald, aventurinereflections, hardness.
glass
Cairngormdo.Smoky orange or yellowdo.do.7.02.65–2.66do.1.55do.Macrocrystalline, color,
refractive index,
transparent, hardness.
Carneliando.Flesh red to brown reddo.do.6.5–7.02.58–2.64do.1.53–1.54JasperCryptocrystalline, color,
hardness.
Chalcedonydo.Bluish, white, or graydo.do.6.5–7.02.58–2.64do.1.53–1.54TanzaniteDo.
Chrysoprasedo.Green, apple-greendo.do.6.5–7.02.58–2.64do.1.53–1.54Chrome chalcedony,Do.
jade, prase opal,
prehnite, smithsonite,
variscite, artificially
colored green
chalcedony
Citrinedo.Yellowdo.do.7.02.65–2.66do.1.55do.Macrocrystalline, color,
refractive index,
transparent, hardness.
Jasperdo.Any color, striped, do.do.7.02.58–2.66XXXXdo.Cryptocrystalline,
spotted, or sometimesopaque, vitreous luster,
uniformhardness.
Onyxdo.Many colorsdo.do.7.02.58–2.64XXXXdo.Cryptocrystalline,
uniformly banded,
hardness.
Petrified wooddo.Brown, gray, red, yellowdo.do.6.5–7.02.58–2.91Double1.54Agate, jasperColor, hardness, wood
grain.
Rock crystaldo.Colorlessdo.do.7.02.65–2.66do.1.55Topaz, colorlessDo.
sapphire
Rosedo.Pink, rose reddo.do.7.02.65–2.66do.1.55do.Macrocrystalline, color,
refractive index,
transparent, hardness.
Tiger's eyedo.Golden yellow, brown,do.do.6.5–7.02.58–2.64XX1.53–1.54XXMacrocrystalline, color,
red, blue-blackhardness, chatoyancy.
RhodochrositeManganese carbonateRose-red to yellowish,do.Low4.03.45–3.7Double1.6–1.82Fire opal, rhodonite,Color, crystal habit,
stripedtugtupite, tourmalinereaction to acid, perfect
rhombohedral cleavage.
RhodoniteManganese ironDark red, flesh red, withdo.do.5.5–6.53.40–3.74do.1.72–1.75Rhodochrosite, thulite,Color, black inclusions,
calcium silicatedendritic inclusions ofhessonite, spinel,lack of reaction to acid,
black manganese oxidepyroxmangite,hardness.
spessartine, tourmaline
Shell:
Mother-of-pearlCalcium carbonateWhite, cream, green,Smalldo.3.52.6–2.85XXXXGlass and plasticLuster, iridescent play
blue-green, withimitationof color.
iridescent play of color
Pearldo.White, cream to black,do.Low to high2.5–4.52.6–2.85XXXXCultured and glass or Luster, iridescence,
sometimes with hint ofplastic imitationx-ray of internal structure.
pink, green, purple
Spinel, naturalMagnesiumAny colorSmall toMedium8.03.5–3.7Single1.72Synthetic, garnetRefractive index, single
aluminum oxidemediumrefraction, inclusions.
Spinel, syntheticdo.do.Up to 40Low8.03.5–3.7Double1.73Spinel, corundum, beryl,Weak double refraction,
caratstopaz, alexandritecurved striae, bubbles.
Spodumene:
HiddeniteLithium aluminumYellow to greenMediumMedium6.5–7.03.13–3.20do.1.66Synthetic spinelRefractive index, color,
silicatepleochroism.
Kunzitedo.Pink to lilacdo.do.6.5–7.03.13–3.20do.1.66Amethyst, morganiteDo.
TanzaniteComplex silicateBlue to lavenderSmallHigh6.0–7.03.30do.1.69Sapphire, syntheticsStrong trichroism, color.
Topazdo.White, blue, green, pink,MediumLow to8.03.4–3.6do.1.62Beryl, quartzColor, density, hardness,
yellow, goldmediumrefractive index, perfect
in basal cleavage.
Tourmalinedo.Any color, includingdo.do.7.0–7.52.98–3.20do.1.63Peridot, beryl, garnetDouble refraction, color,
mixedcorundum, glassrefractive index.
TurquoiseCopper aluminumBlue to green with black,LargeLow6.02.60–2.83do.1.63Chrysocolla, dyedDifficult if matrix not
phosphatebrown-red inclusionshowlite, dumortierite,present, matrix usually
glass, plastics, variscitelimonitic.
UnakiteGranitic rock,Olive green, pink,do.do.6.0–7.02.60–3.20XXXXXXOlive green, pink, gray-
feldspar, epidote,and blue-grayblue colors.
quartz
ZirconZirconium silicateWhite, blue, brown, yellow,Small toLow to6.0–7.54.0–4.8Double1.79–1.98Diamond, synthetics,Double refraction,
or greenmediummedium(strong)topaz, aquamarinestrongly dichroic, wear
on facet edges.

Do., do. Ditto. XX Not applicable.

1Small, up to 5 carats; medium, 5 to 50 carats; large, more than 50 carats.

2Low, up to $25 per carat; medium, up to $200 per carat; high, more than $200 per carat.


Source: United States Geological Survey Mineral Resources Program

See also: Gemstones statistics | Mineral commodity prices


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